Heading South. Leading African Designers

Contents:

• Ifeanyi Ogunwu
• Jean Servais Somian
• Jomo Tariku
• Studio Lani
• Chrissa Amua
• Dokter and Misses Company
• Propolis Niroby
• Nmbello Studio
• Abubakar Fofana
• Aissa Dion
• Boubacar Doumbia
• Hana Getachew
• Nicole Levenberg

The first African Design Week will be held in Cape Town and Johannesburg in October. This is an excellent opportunity to understand the unique characteristics of African product and textile design. African design is unique due to its cultural diversity and rich history. Local artisans use traditional techniques and materials to create contemporary pieces that reflect the continent's identity. Learn more about the influence of African traditions on global design and how contemporary designers are adapting these elements in their work. African Design Week will provide a platform for the exchange of ideas and inspiration, highlighting the importance of African design on the global stage.

Interest in the work of African designers is growing under the influence of two key trends. First, Africa is becoming increasingly significant in the context of the Global South, which, according to Dutch trend analyst Li Edelkoort, is increasingly referred to as the "Proud South." This region abounds with creative energy, unique cultural characteristics, exotic craft traditions, and a distinctive approach to color, corporeality, and ritual. Africa, and more broadly the "proud South," today represents a space brimming with creativity and a multitude of unexpected opportunities. Secondly, the Black Lives Matter movement has drawn the industry's attention to ethnic Africans and members of the diaspora living in the US, France, and the UK. This has led to increased interest in African design and culture, which opens up new horizons for collaboration and exchange of ideas.

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Proud South: the popularity of design from the southern countries of the world

Design inspired by southern countries is gaining increasing popularity. Elements characteristic of the culture and nature of these regions are reflected in the interiors and architecture. Bright colors, natural materials, and unique patterns create a style that attracts attention and creates a cozy atmosphere. Southern design incorporates influences from countries such as Spain, Italy, Greece, and others. Architectural solutions from these regions, such as terraces, arches, and open spaces, are becoming relevant in modern interiors. The use of natural materials such as wood and stone, as well as textiles with ethnic patterns, creates harmony and a warm atmosphere. Furthermore, the Southern interior style emphasizes light and rich tones, which visually expand the space and add vibrant accents. This approach is ideal for creating a comfortable and stylish environment in the home or office.

Thus, Southern design continues to inspire and unite people, creating unique spaces that reflect the culture and traditions of these regions.

Before the pandemic, David Adjaye, known as Barack Obama's favorite architect, attracted particular attention in the media and international architecture market. He designed the National Museum of African American Culture in Washington, D.C., which has become an important cultural landmark. Equally popular is Diébédo Francis Kéré, the first African architect to be awarded the Pritzker Prize. His work is marked by a unique approach and a deep understanding of cultural context, making it significant in contemporary architectural discourse. Architects of this caliber not only shape the appearance of modern cities but also contribute to the development of cultural identity.

Among the stars who shone brightly but left us too early, Virgil Abloh (1980–2021) stands out. As the founder of the Off-White brand, the artistic director of Louis Vuitton's menswear line, and a talented artist whose work was represented by renowned gallerist Larry Gagosian, Virgil Abloh left a significant mark on the worlds of fashion and art, changing the perception of the interaction between these two spheres. His unique style and creative approach have inspired countless young designers and artists, making his legacy particularly significant.

Cossi Aguessi (1977–2017) was an outstanding designer who became a prominent figure in the world of fashion and design. Although he passed away at the age of 40, his career left a significant mark. Aguessi founded his own design studio and collaborated with renowned brands such as Philippe Starck, The Coca-Cola Company, Stella McCartney, and Renault. His work combined creativity and innovation, making him one of the most memorable designers of his time. His design aesthetic is characterized by futurism, multiculturalism, and polymorphism. Some of his most famous pieces include the monolithic Jord chair, crafted from Carrara marble; the Useless Tool chair, crafted using military aircraft parts; the Gang Bang vases; and the glossy Zoo and Loo masks. These pieces demonstrate a unique approach to materials and forms, combining contemporary design with historical traditions.

Among the initiatives that arose against the backdrop of the Black Lives Matter movement Matter, one of the most significant is the BAD Guild—Black Artists + Designers Guild. This organization was founded in 2018 by Brooklyn ceramicist and rug designer Malene Barnett. At its inception, the association included 77 representatives of the African diaspora, including architects, interior designers, designers, and artisans. BAD Guild actively promotes diversity in the arts and design, creating a platform to support and develop talented Black professionals in these fields. In this article, we will take a closer look at key African designers who are making a significant impact on the global fashion market. Africa is renowned for its rich cultural heritage and unique style, which is reflected in the work of local designers. They use traditional fabrics, vibrant colors, and unique patterns, making their collections noticeable and memorable.

Prominent African designers such as Olivia Platt, Deborah Tawang, and Kimberly Ndubi present a contemporary vision of African fashion, combining traditional elements with modern trends. Their work not only highlights the rich cultural diversity of the continent but also attracts the attention of an international audience, opening new horizons for African fashion on the global stage.

Thus, African designers make an important contribution to the development of the fashion industry, and their innovative approaches and creativity continue to inspire both local and international artists. Studying their work allows us to better understand how African culture influences modern trends and forms a unique style that attracts attention worldwide.

Ifeanyi Ogunwu

An artist, architect, and designer originally from Nigeria, currently lives and works in London. He trained in architecture in Chicago, London, and New York. During his career, he collaborated with the studio of renowned fashion designer Hussein Chalayan and worked in the team of renowned architect Zaha Hadid. In 2008, he founded the London-based architectural and furniture design studio Expand Design Ltd., which became known for its innovative projects and unique approach to design.

Armelle Soyer, a French gallerist, organized a solo exhibition dedicated to his work in 2013, entitled Look Mums, with no Hands. In 2014, his work was presented at the prestigious Design Miami/Basel and Design Shanghai exhibitions. He actively explores the connections between history, primary materials, and contemporary technologies in his design work.

In 2015, the Vitra Design Museum presented Ogunwu's Splice stool at the exhibition Making Africa: A Continent of Contemporary Design. Key pieces included the Bulgy Inverted chair and table, as well as the Shwisty ping-pong table, commissioned by the Shenzhen Biennale. These works highlight a contemporary approach to design in the African context and showcase innovative ideas that are shaping the future of design on the continent.

Jean Servais Somian

Designer, cabinetmaker and sculptor. At 16, he began his apprenticeship with the Lebanese master Georges Ghandour in Abidjan, then continued with a specialist in Grand-Bassam and then in Lausanne, where he trained at the design agency of Daniel Beck. For many years, he lived between Africa and Europe, which significantly influenced his work and artistic style. The designer works with natural materials such as coconut, ebony, and amazak wood. He creates unique and functional objects from everyday African objects. For example, old canoes that have fallen into disuse are transformed into stylish sofas and benches. Elegant mirror frames and bookcases are carved from coconut palms, and old plastic basins become original pool taubrettes. Somian also creates sculptures and masks distinguished by their clean lines and high quality of execution, which rival the works of French purists. This approach to design not only preserves traditions, but also brings fresh ideas to the world of contemporary art.

The designer actively exhibits his works at solo and group exhibitions in the USA, Latin America, Europe and Africa. His works have earned a place of honor in renowned private collections, including those of Mathias and Gervan Léridon, as well as King Mohammed VI of Morocco. Jean Servais Somian currently resides in Côte d'Ivoire, where he oversees the work of dozens of local artists. He pays special attention to passing on his experience to the next generation, which contributes to the development of the artistic culture of the region.

Jomo Tariku

Jomo Tariku is a talented American industrial designer with Ethiopian roots, born in Kenya. He received his education in industrial design from the University of Kansas. While still a student, Tariku began experimenting with integrating African heritage with modern technology, seeking to change the perception of African design beyond stereotypes such as "masks and leopard print." His work gained widespread recognition during Dubai Design Week in 2016, marking a significant milestone in his career and contributing to the international recognition of African design. Jomo Tariku is the creator of iconic designs including the Nyala, Qwanta, and Meedo chairs, as well as the Birth Chair II and Kebero Stool. His Watatu stool series was featured in the film Black Panther: Wakanda Forever, highlighting its cultural significance. Inspired by the ascetic vows of priests and nuns from the mountains of East Africa, Tariku created the minimalist MeQuamya chair. This discreet and compact chair is deceptively small in size, but at the same time it offers a high degree of comfort.

Jomo actively participates in international exhibitions, and His artwork is included in the collections of renowned museums such as the Metropolitan Museum of Art and LACMA. He is a founding member of the Black Artists + Designers Guild (BADG), an organization that promotes the work of African designers on a global stage. His achievements highlight the importance of diversity in design and art and contribute to the increased visibility of talented African artists and designers.

Studio Lani

Lani Adeoye is a Nigerian-Canadian designer and the founder of Studio Lani, a creative team specializing in unique furniture, lighting, clothing, and accessories. Based in Lagos, Nigeria, Lani frequently travels between Africa, North America, and Europe, inspiring her to create innovative and stylish designs. By blending cultural influences with contemporary design, Studio Lani offers products that stand out from traditional design, bringing elements of sophisticated style and functionality to everyday life. Several years ago, at the Sattellitte exhibition in Milan, an innovative development was unveiled – the RemX Walker. This product attracted attention for its unique design and functionality, offering users comfort and support in mobility. RemX Walker walkers have become popular among people in need of rehabilitation and walking assistance due to their reliability and modern solutions.

Chrissa Amua

British-Ghanaian designer, curator, editor and creative consultant, who is the founder of the homewear and interiors brand AMWA Designs. In her work, she draws inspiration from Ghanaian adinkra symbols, which gives uniqueness and cultural value to her collections. AMWA Designs offers stylish and comfortable home solutions, combining modern trends with traditional Ghanaian elements. The brand focuses on high-quality materials and eco-friendliness of its products, making it attractive to conscious buyers.

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African patterns: from adinkra to shweshwe

African patterns are unique artistic expressions that reflect the rich culture and traditions of the continent. They are used in textiles, ceramics, painting, and various crafts. Some of the most well-known patterns are adinkra and shweshwe.

Adinkra, a traditional Guinean pattern, symbolizes wisdom and strength. It is often used in clothing and accessories, bringing elements of African heritage into modern style. Adinkra patterns are varied and can tell a story or convey an important message.

Shweshwe, originally from South Africa, is characterized by vibrant colors and geometric shapes. This pattern is often associated with Zulu culture and is used in clothing, home decor, and art. Shweshwe is not only beautiful but also filled with meaning, reflecting the values ​​​​and traditions of the people.

African patterns are becoming increasingly popular in the world of fashion and design. They inspire designers and artists, helping them create unique and expressive pieces. Using these patterns in a contemporary context helps preserve and transmit Africa's cultural heritage, bringing diversity to global design.

The study of African patterns opens new horizons for creativity and self-expression, making them an important part of contemporary art and design.

Chrissa has worked on projects for the sustainable footwear brand Allbirds, based in San Francisco. She also created the A Sense of Duality collection for the renowned American furniture brand Bernhardt Design. In 2017, Chrissa founded the platform Africa by Design, which serves as a showcase for outstanding African designers and their work.

The designer actively participates in public discussions, especially as a moderator of discussions on African art. One of the significant events was the discussion "African Art and Design: Beyond the Trend," organized at the invitation of the auction house Sotheby's. In 2021, Chrissa represented Ghana at the London Design Biennale, where she created a pavilion at London's Somerset House in collaboration with renowned African architect Alice Asafu-Adjaye. These events highlight the growing influence of African art and design on the international stage.

Dokter and Misses

The multidisciplinary design firm was founded in 2007 in Johannesburg by industrial designer Adrian Hugo and graphic designer Katie Taplin. The company specializes in residential, interior, and product design. Through a combination of innovative solutions and an artistic approach, the designers create unique spaces and objects that reflect the individuality of their clients. In their work, they consider functionality and aesthetics, which allows them to achieve harmony in each project.

Some contemporary pieces offer a new take on traditional African patterns. For example, the LALA Shwantla cabinet is decorated with geometric Basotho patterns, while the Kassena series is inspired by the architectural features of the Kassena people of Burkina Faso. These elements not only add aesthetic value but also immerse themselves in the continent's rich cultural history, highlighting its diversity and uniqueness.

Propolis Niroby

Propolis Studio was founded by husband and wife team Bethan Rayner and Naim Biwiji in Nairobi. While they currently work in Warrington, UK, their experiences in Kenya have significantly influenced their design philosophy. They focus on the use of local materials and the practical aspects of design. This approach helps them create unique and functional solutions that reflect cultural characteristics and environmental sustainability. Studio Propolis strives to combine modern design and traditional techniques, which makes their projects not only aesthetically pleasing but also practical to use.

The studio, specializing in wood and metal processing, is known for its carefully crafted products that offer a unique tactile experience. One of the most famous pieces is the Hide chair, distinguished by its leather legs. Each seamless strap is crafted from a single piece of Kenyan hide, underscoring the high quality and craftsmanship. In our studio, we strive to create not only functional but also aesthetically pleasing items that fit harmoniously into any interior.

Nmbello Studio

A commercial and artistic design studio founded by Nifemi Marcus-Bello, focused on empathy and a deep understanding of end user needs. An important part of the studio's work is solving social problems through design. An example of this approach is the Introverts Chair, a high wicker backed chair that creates privacy in public spaces, providing comfort and seclusion. The studio strives not only for aesthetics but also for functionality, developing projects that improve quality of life and promote social integration.

Our studio actively supports the "Made in Africa" ​​concept. A striking example of completely local production is the LM Stool. The designers were inspired by the need to move furniture in overcrowded cities and created the Tebur table. This table stands out for its ease of assembly, packaging, and transportation, making it an ideal solution for modern urban environments.

High city living costs inspired the designers to create Akroti, a multifunctional hybrid piece that serves as a table, stool, and storage unit. This practical object optimizes space and meets the needs of the modern city dweller. Other notable works by the designers include the Selah lamp and a portable kiosk for skateboard brand Waf. These products demonstrate an innovative approach to design and functionality in urban conditions.

Africa has developed a unique group of designers, consisting of professionals and studios specializing in textile art. This is due to the richness of African traditions associated with fabric dyeing, weaving, hand-weaving and stitching. Designers use authentic methods and techniques passed down through generations, lending their work uniqueness and depth. African textiles are gaining increasing popularity internationally, attracting the attention of art and fashion connoisseurs. El Anatsui's giant sculptural canvases have gained worldwide renown and attracted the attention of collectors. Billy Zangiewa's silk collages are also highly sought after for their uniqueness and aesthetics. In textile design, masters such as Thanya Petersen, Nkuli Mlangeni, and KweziO, as well as Kwarteng, stand out for their use of textile techniques as the foundation of their work. In this context, we will focus on artists who can be classified as textile designers and their contributions to the development of this art form.

Aboubacar Fofana

Born in Mali and raised in France, Fofana worked for a long time as a graphic designer and commercial calligrapher. In Paris, he began studying traditional indigo dyeing techniques, which became the foundation of his creative practice. He installed his first dyeing vat, where the key fermentation process takes place, in Bamako. Fofana perceives dyeing as an art and a spiritual practice, which emphasizes his deep connection with the culture and traditions of his native country.

Fofana develops unique pieces using traditional West African materials and techniques. The fabrics are enriched with hand embroidery and decorative elements. The designer is currently actively studying the healing properties of indigo, which gives her work additional depth and significance.

Aïssa Dion

Her mother is French and her father is Senegalese. She grew up in France and now lives and works in Dakar. In 1992, she founded a textile company after discovering the rare master weavers of the Manjak people in Senegal. Since then, her studio has grown into an internationally recognized brand. Dion successfully combines artistic experimentation with traditional local techniques. Her team consists of about 50 weavers, which contributes to the preservation of the unique cultural heritage and the development of textile art in the region.

In Dakar, the designer runs a gallery where she promotes the work of local artists, as well as textiles and furniture from her studio. Dion has a vibrant social personality and is actively involved in community life. She is not only a designer and entrepreneur, but also an activist who organizes international conferences dedicated to African crafts. Its main theme is the preservation of local techniques and traditions that are in danger of disappearing. Dion strives to draw attention to these important issues and support artists and artisans, preserving the region's cultural heritage.

Boubacar Doumbia

Born in Mali, he showed an interest in traditional textile production techniques from an early age. In 2004, he founded a studio that evolved into a social project. Doumbia began his work in his native village of Ségou, where he taught young people with disabilities, gradually developing a unique method for teaching traditional fabric dyeing techniques. This project not only supports cultural heritage, but also promotes social integration and strengthens the local community.

The Doumbia workshop has earned a reputation for its high-quality textile products. This boutique creates stylish accessories and original decorative elements for interiors that attract the attention of connoisseurs of high-quality design.

Hana Getachew

Hana was born in Ethiopia and spent several years in Montreal before her family moved to New York. There, she studied interior design and began her career. Along the way, Hana realized that her love of bright colors and graphic patterns was rooted in her childhood spent surrounded by traditional Ethiopian textiles. This heritage inspires her creative approach and helps her create unique interiors that reflect a rich cultural palette.

Getachew founded a company that combines weaving traditions with modern global design trends. Color is the designer's primary tool, adding relevance and expressiveness to her collections. Using a carefully considered palette, Getachew creates unique pieces that reflect both cultural heritage and contemporary aesthetic preferences.

Nicole Lewenberg

Born in Johannesburg, South Africa, she studied fine art at the University of the Witwatersrand in Johannesburg and then textile design in London. During her studies, she conducted a research project on tropical greenhouses, which inspired her pieces using tropical and exotic foliage. Her work is dominated by textiles, unique wallpaper, and striking abstract posters that attract attention and create an atmosphere of comfort and modernity in the interior.

In Levenberg's designs, traditional African textile patterns are harmoniously combined with modern abstract forms. The designer masterfully works with color, using non-African pastel palettes, which gives a unique and fresh feel to his creations. This blend of cultures creates original visual solutions that attract attention and engage a wide audience.

A diverse group of designers with African roots highlights the growing influence of Africa and its diasporas in the United States and Europe. Each year, the "proud South" becomes increasingly prominent, demonstrating a cultural and creative renaissance in the region. This phenomenon opens new horizons for collaboration and the exchange of ideas, fostering the development of a unique style and identity based on a rich heritage and contemporary trends.

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