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Know Them: The Best Contemporary Photographers / ITech content

Know Them: The Best Contemporary Photographers / ITech content

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We explore who has been involved in fashion and other photography in Russia and abroad in recent years. In this review, we will introduce several women who professionally create photo projects and make a significant contribution to the industry.

The professional geography of our heroines is diverse and dynamic, reflecting the realities in which an ambitious artist cannot exist without travel. Although most of them began their careers in Moscow or St. Petersburg, their stories in photography represent a unique path. Interestingly, each of them has a diverse background: journalism, medicine, clinical psychology, and training as a cinematographer—all of these fields, in one way or another, led the girls to the world of photography. These factors enrich their creative practice and make each story unique.

We decided to expand our review and include young female photographers with an original vision. Their works lie at the intersection of visionary and conceptual photography, going beyond traditional portraits and commercial lookbooks. Let's start with well-known names that have also had a significant influence on contemporary photography.

Katya Turkina

Katya lives between Moscow and London. She first studied medicine, then journalism, and in 2016 completed an MA in fashion photography at the London College of Fashion with a project dedicated to her sister, Alisa. She later began teaching at the same institution, sharing her experience and knowledge in the field of fashion photography.

My two-year course emphasized the creative process rather than the technical aspects. Here, conceptual thinking is taught, which fosters the development of an individual approach to project creation.

Her artistic and research work focuses on the perception of reality and explores the relationship between nature and humanity. These themes are explored through various artistic forms and conceptual approaches, allowing for a deeper understanding of the impact of human activity on the world around us. The works highlight the importance of harmony between humans and nature, and invite the viewer to rethink their place in this complex interaction.

The MEandTHEM: Back Home with Alice project was published and reviewed by the British Journal of Photography, Vogue Italy, and i-D magazine. Photos taken in Essentuki. Photo: Turkina Faso / Behance.

Katya has significant experience in photography, working with international projects and renowned publications such as Dazed, i-D, Numero Russia, Vogue Italy, and Wonderland UK. She has published two photo books and directed the documentary "Boys Don't Cry," which explores important social issues. Katya is also active in publishing on fashion transformation and consumption, highlighting her deep understanding of current industry trends.

Photo: Turkina Faso

Documentary photography is my passion, and I especially appreciate the work of the Magnum agency. I am not unique in this passion. One of my favorite photographers is Viviane Sassen, and I also relate to Pierre Debusschere's aesthetic, even though it's not exactly trendy. I also admire Martin Parr—his work and reportage are impressive, even if his personality is controversial.

Katya Turkina gave an interview to Be-in in 2017. In this conversation, she shared her thoughts on her career, personal achievements, and professional goals. Turkina discussed her journey in the industry, how she overcomes challenges, and finds inspiration for new achievements. She also touched on issues related to creativity, self-expression, and the importance of support from others. The interview marked a significant milestone in her career, opening new horizons for communication with fans and professionals alike.

Elizaveta Porodina

Elizaveta was born in Moscow and moved to Munich with her family at the age of 12. Initially, she chose a career as a clinical psychologist, but soon decided on a change and returned to her passion – photography. Taking up photography became not only a means of self-expression for her, but also the beginning of a successful career in this field. Elizaveta strives to capture unique moments and convey atmosphere through her photographs, which makes her work sought after and highly valued.

Today, Elizaveta is a recognized photographer, with almost 500,000 followers on social media. She collaborates with famous models and actors, and also works with prestigious brands such as Chanel, Hermes, and Dior. Elizaveta has photographed for publications such as The Cut, Vogue, and Time, and during the quarantine period, she successfully organized advertising campaign shoots via Zoom.

Photo: Vogue China / Elizaveta Porodina / Orebella / Concrete Rep. LTD
Photo: Sergey Zhernov / Elizaveta Porodina / Jacques Marie Mage x The Velvet Underground / Concrete Rep. LTD

Porodina's artistic vision finds its unique expression at the intersection of photography and painting. One of the key themes in her work is androgyny, which allows her to explore issues of identity and perception in greater depth. Through her works, she creates multilayered images that provoke reflection on gender boundaries and their perception in modern society.

Humans are complex and multifaceted beings, possessing many aspects. Limiting them through gender roles is an incorrect and narrow approach to understanding individuality. The society in which we live often narrows the horizons of men, reducing them to a limited set of characteristics, which, as a creative person, evokes dissatisfaction and sometimes even anger in me. I strive to ensure that these stereotypical aspects do not influence my work, and I believe it is important to expand the boundaries of perception, opening up new avenues for self-expression.

In an interview for Turist media in 2023, Elizaveta Porodina shared her thoughts and views on current topics in tourism and travel. She discussed the importance of sustainable tourism and its impact on the environment. Porodina emphasized that modern travelers should consider choosing eco-friendly destinations and responsible service providers. She also noted that cultural enrichment and familiarization with local culture play a key role in creating a unique travel experience. Elizaveta urged everyone to monitor industry trends and actively participate in the development of tourism that will contribute to the preservation of nature and cultural heritage.

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Design is not only visual aesthetics, but also an important process in which professionals play a key role. Key specialists in the field of design include graphic designers, web designers, UX/UI designers, and illustrators. Each of them makes a unique contribution to the creation of a quality product. Graphic designers are responsible for visual elements such as logos and promotional materials. Web designers focus on creating user-friendly and functional interfaces for websites and apps. UX/UI designers work to improve user experience, ensuring simplicity and intuitiveness of interaction. Illustrators, in turn, create original images that can highlight a brand's personality. All of these professionals play a vital role in shaping a product's visual identity and functionality, making them indispensable in the design world.

Polina Washington

Polina was born and raised in Veliky Novgorod. After an unsuccessful attempt, she successfully entered the University of Cinema and Television, which marked a new stage in her life in St. Petersburg. For ten years, Polina photographed "otherworldly" landscapes and portraits on film, which led to the creation of a unique photo series called DVRKVISIONS. Gradually, she began to adapt to digital technologies, and as a result, new series of works appeared: Wishful thinking, Solutions, No vision and Bloom. These projects reflect her evolution as an artist and her desire to explore new artistic forms.

Photo: Polina Washington / Behance

Previously, I photographed natural landscapes - forests and nature, actively using the technique of multiple exposures. However, over time, this began to make me bored, and I felt the need to go beyond the usual framework. As a result, I began experimenting with artificial lighting and replacing my usual natural locations with urban ones. This shift opened up new creative horizons and allowed me to create unique works that reflect the dynamics of urban life.

In a 2021 interview with Blaze, Polina Washington shared her views on current topics and personal achievements. She discussed her path to success, the challenges she faced, and how she overcame them. Polina also discussed the importance of self-expression and support among women in various fields. Her experience inspires many, and the interview has become an important platform for discussing current issues related to personal growth and professional development.

Photo: Polina Washington / Behance

Polina presented her book "Vision", dedicated to finding oneself and one's creative path. She actively blogs about photography, shares her experiences, and conducts workshops, teaching others the art of photography. Polina also creates poetic video clips that reflect her unique perspective. Interestingly, she came to photography with a background in cinematography, which significantly enriched her creative process and approach to visual art.

I initially entered the program with the understanding that I would gain an excellent foundation in working with light, composition, and other important aspects that I would need in photography. One of the key principles I was able to transfer to my photography is the integrity of the image inherent in cinema. In this art, everything must be carefully considered: from the character type to the lighting, location, and color scheme. These elements play a crucial role in the creation of high-quality visual content.

Polina Washington shared her views and experiences in an interview with Blaze in 2021. She discussed current topics related to life and career, and also shared her thoughts on the future. Polina emphasized the importance of self-expression and personal growth, making her opinion resonate with many. This interview marked a significant milestone in her professional journey and attracted a wide audience.

Kamilla Khanapova

Kamilla is a photographer and art director from St. Petersburg, working with renowned fashion brands such as Arny Praht, IRNBY, Sorelle, and My Dear Petra, as well as the Golden Apple retail chain. In 2018, she was awarded the prestigious Hasselblad Master Award in the Architecture category, recognizing her high professionalism and creative approach to photography. Kamilla continues to develop in the field of art and photography, creating unique visual images that attract attention and inspire.

Photo: Kamilla Hanapova / Behance

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Architecture is my way of understanding the world around me. Fashion and portrait photography allow me to explore human nature. Ultimately, each of my works reflects me, my feelings and views on various events and phenomena, as well as the world through the prism of my perception. Fashion and portrait photography provide me with the necessary materials, tools, and opportunities for self-expression. This is why I cannot limit myself to one genre in my creative practice.

Kamilla Khanapova gave an interview for Abduzeedo in 2019. In this conversation, she shared her experiences and views on contemporary trends in design and art. Kamilla discussed the importance of creativity and an individual approach to work, as well as the influence of technology on the development of visual culture. Her ideas on the interaction between traditional and contemporary creative methods formed the basis for a discussion of new horizons in design. Kamilla's engaging insights can inspire future designers and artists to find their own unique style and expand the boundaries of self-expression.

Photo: Kamilla Hanapova / Behance

I strive to create photographs that are not simply a visual image, but also evoke deep emotions in viewers. My goal is to empower everyone to question what's happening beyond the image. I want viewers to explore the details of their photographs, ponder the origins of reflections and shadows. My work should spark imagination and provoke thought, allowing everyone to see something unique in it.

Kamilla Khanapova gave an interview to Abduzeedo in 2019. In this interview, she shared her views on contemporary trends in design and art. Khanapova discussed the importance of creativity and innovative solutions in the work of designers. She also noted how technology influences the development of artistic expression and the creation of unique projects. Kamilla emphasized the importance of staying true to one's ideas and seeking inspiration from the world around us. This interview became an important milestone in her career and brought attention to her work, which continues to inspire many in the design field.

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Camera lucida: how to create semantic accents in photography

A camera lucida is a unique tool that allows photographers and artists to see the world in a new way. It not only helps in creating images but also in imbuing each photograph with deep meaning. Using a camera lucida opens up opportunities to convey emotions, stories, and ideas through visual imagery.

To imbue a photograph with meaning, it's important to consider several key aspects. First, composition plays a central role. Proper placement of objects in the frame can highlight important elements and create the desired mood. Second, lighting also influences the perception of an image. The play of light and shadow can add drama or, conversely, create an atmosphere of calm.

Also, it's worth paying attention to details. Every detail in the frame can tell a story and add layers. For example, the use of symbolic objects or certain color palettes can emphasize the main idea of ​​the photograph.

Don't forget about context. The meaning of a photograph can change depending on how the viewer perceives the surrounding reality. Therefore, it is important to consider cultural and social aspects that may influence the interpretation of your image.

Thus, camera lucida serves not only as a tool for creating visual content, but also as a powerful means of conveying meaning and emotion. Using this tool, photographers can enrich their work with depth and variety, promoting a deeper perception of the art of photography.

Margarita Smagina

Margarita is a professional photographer working in St. Petersburg, Moscow, and abroad. She creates both commercial and personal creative projects. Her main focus is fashion photography. Margarita's work has been published in such publications as ID-magazine, Fucking Young, Buro 24/7, L'Officiel UA, L'Officiel AZ, Harper's Bazaar Ru, Sobaka.ru, and Esquire. She has collaborated with renowned brands such as Nike, Ushatava, Hugo Boss, Ziq & Yoni, Befree, LG, and Londa Professional. Margarita strives to capture unique moments and style, adding expressiveness and artistic value to her photographs.

The photo on the left is a personal project. The photo on the right is the Befree Co:Create and Turben lookbook. Photo: FotoDepartament / Befree Co:Create press service.

In addition to her main activities, Rita has also tried her hand at design. At the end of 2022, she presented a collaborative collection with the Befree brand, for which she developed the concept and shot the advertising campaign, as well as the lookbook. This project has become a shining example of her creativity and ability to combine fashion and visual art.

In the photo on the left is an item from the Befree Co:Create collection and Margarita Smagina. The photo on the right is a personal project. Photo: Befree Co:Create and Margarita Smagina / Margarita Smagina

I own a variety of cameras and appreciate the opportunity to work with different formats: film, digital, toy cameras, and low-resolution cameras. I'm interested in mixing and matching images, seeing how they interact with each other. I also enjoy working with physical materials: printing photographs, drawing on them, stacking them, and rephotographing them. This process adds a new level of creativity and exploration to my work.

In an interview for Haze Gallery in 2023, Margarita Smagina shared her thoughts on contemporary art and its impact on society. She discussed the importance of artist-audience interaction and the role of technology in the creative process. Smagina noted that art should be accessible and understandable, striving for dialogue with the viewer. She also spoke about her latest works and how they reflect current social issues. The interview allowed us to better understand the artist's philosophy and her vision for the future of art.

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Margarita Smagina shares her experience with film photography and talks about the creation of the zine "Layers." In this publication, she explores the interaction between visual art and fashion. Margarita also presents her new clothing collection for the Befree brand, which reflects her unique style and philosophy. Her film photography emphasizes the importance of detail and atmosphere, which is also reflected in her fashion collections. Smagina strives to inspire the younger generation of artists and designers by demonstrating how different art forms can be combined.

Sasha Mademoiselle

Sasha is a photographer, producer, and photo editor at The Blueprint. Since the age of 16, she has been immersed in the nightlife of the Solyanka club, where she photographed parties and met future stars of fashion and journalism. Her work can be seen in publications such as Dazed, i-D, and Libération. For four years, Sasha taught at the HSE School of Design and actively collaborated with young skaters through the Rassvet brand. She also helped organize Gosha Rubchinskiy's shows, which traveled from Kaliningrad to Yekaterinburg. Sasha continues to develop her professional career, combining creativity with education in photography and fashion.

In 2022, Sasha presented her solo exhibition, "Blood on the Dancefloor," which featured photographs taken between 2006 and 2022. This exhibition became a unique chronicle, combining elements of a personal diary and a photo essay, capturing the atmosphere of legendary Moscow parties at venues such as Solyanka and Simachev bars. The photographs capture not only the vibrant moments of the nightlife, but also the emotional depth inherent in each event, creating a complete picture of the cultural context of the time.

Photo: Sasha Mademuaselle

As a photo editor, I approach my photographs with a high level of criticism and rigor. From the early stages of my career, I focused on developing my visual language by exploring various galleries and portfolios. My days would begin at the computer and end at 5 a.m., immersed in other photographers' work on Flickr. This constant interaction with other people's art contributed to the formation of my unique style and understanding of photography.

Sasha Mademoiselle gave an interview for Metal magazine, in which she shared her thoughts on the music industry and the creative process. She discussed her inspirations, approaches to songwriting, and plans for the future. The conversation also touched on topics of self-expression and the impact of music on society. Sasha noted the importance of sincerity in creativity and support from fans. This interview offers a deeper insight into Sasha Mademoiselle's personality and artistry, as well as her vision of the music world.

Lyuba Kozorezova

Lyuba completed her MA in Photography at the University of Westminster. She actively collaborates with various Russian brands and lifestyle publications. Her portfolio includes work for projects such as Seasons, Flacon Magazine, SNC, the Garage Museum, and the Strelka Institute. Lyuba strives to capture unique moments and convey atmosphere through her photographs, which makes her work sought after in the fashion and art worlds.

Photo: Ushatava / Murashka Wedding Atelier / Luba Kozorezova

In April 2022, I found myself in Tbilisi, driven more by romantic notions than a specific goal. The question, “What's your plan?” made me want to run away from the person I was talking to. This phrase was heard from many people almost daily. I had no plan for my life or intention for the photo project, so I captioned all the photos "Walking, 2022." These photographs reflect my walks around the city, where I felt both alone and in company, but mostly aimless. Tbilisi became a place of exploration and self-discovery for me, where every corner inspired creativity and new ideas.

Lyuba Kozorezova presented her new project for Blueprint in 2022. In this project, she explores current themes and trends in contemporary art, providing a unique perspective on its development. Kozorezova's works are distinguished by their originality and depth, making them appealing to both a general audience and art specialists. In 2022, she continues to actively participate in exhibitions and collaborations, strengthening her position in the art scene. The Blueprint project marked a significant milestone in her creative career, highlighting her individuality and innovative approach to creating artwork.

Photo: Luba Kozorezova / Ready Mag

Style is often perceived as a commercial term, but its meaning is much deeper. In my work, I focus on three key themes: nostalgia, corporeality, and childhood. These aspects not only shape my creative process but also allow me to explore human experiences and emotions. Nostalgia immerses me in memories of the past, corporeality emphasizes physical experience, and childhood opens up a world of innocence and carefreeness. Each of these themes provides unique opportunities for self-expression and deep analysis.

Lyuba Kozorezova joined Stillsproject in 2021. This project focuses on creating unique visual content and developing a creative approach to photography. Through her work, Lyuba brings fresh ideas and a professional perspective, which have contributed to the successful development of the project. Stillsproject continues to draw attention to contemporary art and photography, and Lyuba Kozorezova's contribution has been an important step along this path.

Vera Barkalova

Vera was born and raised in the Moscow region. She earned a degree in journalism and completed her studies at the Rodchenko School of Photography and Multimedia. Vera has exhibited her work not only in Russia but also in Europe and Asia. In collaboration with the sculptor Ekaterina Kovalenko, she worked in the genre of total installation, demonstrating her talents as a photographer, videographer and sound artist.

Photo: Vera Barkalova

Vera carries out her activities "in the fields" as an artist-researcher. She creates narrative pseudo-documentary photo series that reveal the social context of her subjects' lives and their mystical and everyday experiences. Her works offer a deeper understanding of human interaction with the environment and emphasize the uniqueness of each story. Vera explores the subtle facets of reality, creating visual narratives that engage and provoke reflection on the social and cultural aspects of life.

My childhood was spent amid the ruins of the Soviet era. I grew up in the mid-2000s in a village where all the residents believed in mysticism and followed everyday rituals. At children's camps, we often summoned spirits, which added an air of mystery to our lives. This belief in the supernatural shaped a unique culture of communication and traditions that continued to be passed down from generation to generation. Memories of those days are imbued with an atmosphere of mystery and unusualness, making them an integral part of my worldview.

Currently, we are seeing a loss of connection with rituals in modern society. While one may not necessarily believe in their power, rituals offer a way to experience meaningful events, allowing one to gain a deeper understanding of one's cultural traditions and the legacy of one's parents and ancestors. Through these practices, one can not only explore one's identity but also discover new aspects of one's self. Rituals can serve as a bridge between the past and the present, helping us understand our place in the world and our connection to history.

In an interview for Bird in Flight published in 2022, Vera Barkalova shared her views on current topics in art and culture. She discusses the influence of contemporary trends on creative expression and emphasizes the importance of self-expression in a rapidly changing world. Vera also touches on the role of the artist in society and the need to find new forms to convey ideas. This interview opens new dimensions of understanding art and invites readers to reflect on its meaning in our lives.

Photo: Vera Barkalova

In my works, I explore a person and his perception of reality, as well as the psychological conditions in which he finds himself. I am convinced that the themes we choose for reflection, both in our creative work and in life, originate from our inner world. Ritual plays a vital role in this process, being familiar to each of us, yet remaining an inexplicable and mystical aspect of life.

Vera Barkalova gave an interview to Bird in Flight in 2022. During the conversation, she discussed her views on art, creativity, and contemporary society. Barkalova shared her thoughts on the role of the artist in the world, how art can influence social change, and the importance of finding new forms of expression. She emphasized the importance of personal experience in creativity and spoke about her artistic journey, which is filled with both challenges and achievements. The interview became an important milestone in understanding contemporary art and its connection to current societal issues.

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Learning new topics and materials plays a vital role in broadening your horizons and increasing your knowledge. Regularly reading articles, books, and scientific research fosters critical thinking and understanding of complex issues. It also helps you stay current on current events and trends in various fields. Reading not only improves your vocabulary but also develops information analysis skills, which is especially important in today's data-saturated world. Maintain an interest in new knowledge and develop your skills through active reading.

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Profession Photographer

You'll learn how to take professional photos from scratch. You'll learn how to organize shoots, edit images, and manage models and a team. You'll find your style, build an impressive portfolio, and start making money doing what you love.

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