Margarita Smagina on working with film photography, creating the zine "Layers," and her fashion collection for Befree

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Margarita Smagina is a renowned fashion photographer with a unique style and an impressive portfolio. Her experience covers a wide range of work, including commercial shoots for renowned brands, special media projects, and original experiments in project photography. In December 2022, she launched a capsule collection created in collaboration with the Befree brand.

We met with Margarita to discuss her sources of inspiration, her approaches to combining creative and commercial photography, and her impressions of working on her own collection.

Margarita shared her experience. She described the importance of finding a balance between work and personal life. This balance not only contributes to increased productivity but also improves overall well-being. She noted that regular breaks and time for relaxation help maintain motivation and creativity. Margarita also emphasized that pursuing hobbies and spending time with loved ones play a key role in maintaining inner peace and harmony. These aspects help to cope with everyday stress and achieve set goals.

• how to achieve multi-layered work when working on one zine;
• why working with negative gives more opportunities;
• is it possible to use film in commercial photography;
• what clothes from her collection would she wear herself;
• why it was not possible to reproduce Bergman's plot in the advertising concept.

Photographer and teacher, specializing in fashion photography and original projects. She shoots for magazines and online media, and creates lookbooks for collections and advertising campaigns for brands. Her clients include such publications as Fucking Young, Paper Magazine, Esquire, The Blueprint, Buro 24/7, and Afisha Daily. Thanks to her diverse experience and professionalism, she successfully combines an artistic approach with commercial objectives, which allows her to stand out from other specialists in the field of fashion photography.

My style can be described as modern and laconic. I prefer clarity and simplicity in expressing thoughts, which allows me to better convey information to the reader. In my work, I focus on the relevance of the content, striving to create text that will be interesting and useful to the target audience. My approach includes using SEO optimization to increase visibility and accessibility of information in search engines, which allows me to better meet user queries.

I prefer to avoid being tied to a single style, as photography is a fascinating medium with many possibilities for me. My work does not have a stable or monotonous visual solution; it is constantly evolving and changing. This dynamic reflects my interest in variety and experimentation in photography.

I am particularly attracted to border states. I love to create stories in which I explore inner journeys, delving into the dark corners of my mind. These explorations open up new horizons of self-understanding and allow me to gain a deeper understanding of my emotions and experiences.

I create a narrative that allows the viewer to immerse themselves in a unique state and feel the atmosphere of a particular world. My goal is to create a deep connection between the viewer and the plot, so that everyone can experience emotions and events on a deeper level. This approach promotes full immersion in the story and creates unforgettable experiences.

I strive to perceive the world around me with new eyes, so that my perspective remains fresh and I don't devalue what surrounds me. Even in moments when it seems like there's not enough happening and life stands still, important details are always happening. You just need to learn to notice them and pay attention to the small but significant moments. This allows you to better understand the surrounding reality and find inspiration in everyday life.

At the moment, I prefer an approach to work in which I do not set strict project boundaries from the very beginning. Instead, I begin to complete tasks, and as I work, I gradually understand the essence of the project. Often, when you set boundaries in advance, the result may not meet expectations, which leads to disappointment. This approach allows me to remain flexible and open to new ideas, which ultimately leads to higher-quality results. Constantly training my attention and regular photographing help me discover stories and meanings that ultimately boil down to one theme: decline. This practice encompasses all aspects of life, not just photography. In everyday life and in critical situations, I begin to notice positive moments that might previously have gone unnoticed. This approach allows you not only to develop observation skills, but also to find the bright side even in difficult conditions.

When I mention decline, I mean It's not so much financial loss as the process of decay. This is a state where something loses its vitality and dynamism. Decline can manifest itself in various forms, including diminished interest, loss of energy, and diminished opportunities. It's important to recognize that decay requires attention and action to restore lost potential. Autumn is a special time of year, filled with vibrant colors and an atmosphere of cozy anticipation. Unlike spring, when nature awakens, autumn brings calm and tranquility. This is the period when tree leaves turn golden and red, creating picturesque landscapes. Autumn gives us the opportunity to enjoy the fresh air while harvesting and preparing for the winter. This time of year is especially pleasant to spend time on walks, enjoying the beauty of nature and the atmosphere of change. Autumn is a time of reflection and inspiration, when each day brings new emotions and impressions.

This also applies to commercial photography: the projects I am invited to work on harmoniously match my creative approach.

Maintaining my own approach in commercial photography requires special effort and inspiration. It is important to find a balance between the client's requirements and my personal artistic vision. I am inspired by various sources: nature, art, music, and even everyday life. I strive to integrate these elements into my work so that each shoot is unique. Creating an atmosphere that reflects my ideas while meeting the client's expectations allows me to maintain individuality in commercial projects.

For me, original photography is a daily practice. I strive to shoot every day, integrating photography into everyday moments. This allows me to always have my camera at hand and develop my skills. Regular practice helps not only improve technique, but also find inspiration in everyday situations.

We are now in Thailand, and part My belongings remained in a warehouse in St. Petersburg. Today I counted the cameras I took with me, and there were seven of them. I enjoy buying and selling cameras, as well as exploring different formats and working with image quality. Each new experience with equipment allows me to better understand photography and improve my skills.

Shooting with a large camera can be challenging, so I prefer to use small film cameras for everyday photography. It's important to remember not to expect instant results or masterpieces from every photograph. The main goal of this practice is to enjoy the process of shooting and develop my skills, without limiting myself in the search for the perfect shot.

I am inspired by project photography. In St. Petersburg, I had the opportunity to regularly visit the studio now known as Medium Education, which formerly bore the name of Guy Johansson Studio. There, I studied books, paying attention to their structure, chosen themes, and visual design. I currently watch YouTube reviews of two to three books a week, read about the authors, and research various resources to help deepen my knowledge and broaden my horizons in the field of project photography.

In the past, I actively used Pinterest for inspiration in commercial photography, collecting examples that I then showed to clients. However, I've recently abandoned this practice, as I often encounter commercial projects based on the same references. I now prefer to use images of artworks, such as paintings, sculptures, and performances, as a source of inspiration. I also explain my ideas verbally and provide examples with a clear focus on aspects such as color, light, and location. This approach helps create unique and memorable visual solutions for my clients. Copying images doesn't lead to uniqueness; it's a dead end. The best way is to develop your creative flexibility. In recent months, my main sources of inspiration have become project books and behind-the-scenes footage from old photo shoots, such as the 2006 Jil Sander collection. Studying these works allows you not only to understand the visual language, but also to adapt it to modern trends, creating unique concepts and stylish solutions.

The idea of ​​​​creating a zine "Layers" arose from a desire to explore the multilayered nature of human experience and perception. Each layer represents a distinct aspect of personality, shaped by various factors such as culture, environment, and personal experiences. This concept resonated perfectly with the concept of the Befree collection, where each piece can highlight individuality and a variety of styles. Thus, "Layers" became more than just a zine, but the basis for creating a unique collection reflecting the diversity and complexity of the contemporary fashion world.

I have a box filled with kilograms of printed photographs and clippings. The print quality leaves much to be desired, as they are printed on an inkjet printer. Often, the images are small fragments from larger paintings. I became interested in how these pixelated parts, taken out of context, transform into completely new images, distinct from the originals. I began collecting these elements and created a layout. I added various notes written by my own hand, which fit harmoniously into the overall concept.

When analyzing the overall volume of material, I realized that it lacks any coherent plot. These are rather fragments, taken out of context, that fit together to form a new puzzle. All the text elements relate to themes of earth, air, and matter, emphasizing interconnectedness and transitional states. They demonstrate how all the parts interact and form a unified system.

I created the zine without any particular plans. First, I assembled and stitched the layout, then scanned it, adding a new visual layer. Using inkjet printing, I printed the scans: some of the photographs on the spread were different colors—one page in one shade, and the next in a different one. I didn't make a print run; I just posted the result on Instagram.

When I started collaborating with Befree, I provided them with material that turned out to be fragmentary. During our discussions, we came to the conclusion that the collection should be based on a single project. I handed over all the materials I had, including the zine "Layers," which included disparate textures and hand-written lettering. This added an interesting visual element to the clothing design and became an additional layer to the collection's concept.

The idea of ​​how small things become part of a larger whole inspired us to create the collection and its photography. We emphasized the harmony between individual elements and the holistic image, which allowed us to highlight the uniqueness of each detail in the context of the overall concept.

Were the photographs for the "Layers" project taken on film?

Judging by the photographs, there are both digital and film elements. Many of them were taken in 2015-2016, but due to repeated printing and scanning, the original details were lost. In some images, the texture of the paper is visible, allowing you to see how the paint is applied. This creates a blending effect with the image and opens up new visual structures.

If film weren't so expensive and difficult to process, I would I could allow myself to experiment more. I scan my photos at home and strive to save every frame, even those that I don’t like at first glance. Perhaps they will prove interesting in the future. This process takes a lot of time, but I find it fascinating. I control the color, quality, and size of the images, and can also make changes to the negative, for example, by drawing on it. This creates opportunities for creativity and allows me to work more deeply with the material.

I am passionate about shooting film and own both DSLRs and point-and-shoot cameras. I recently acquired an interesting “half-frame” camera, which takes 72 frames instead of 36, shooting half a frame at a time. This feature allows me to experiment with composition and achieve unique results. Shooting film creates a special atmosphere and helps convey emotions that are not always possible to capture on digital cameras.

I prefer using film for a long time and then switching to digital photography. At first, you admire: “What a stunning image! Everything is so clear and crisp.” After shooting with digital cameras for a few times, I get tired and turn to film again, realizing: "The color is so rich!"

Commercial clients are really interested in film photography. This format allows for the creation of unique and high-quality images that stand out for their texture and atmosphere. Film photography is often used in advertising campaigns, fashion shoots, and art projects, as it conveys a special mood and style. Many brands appreciate the authenticity and originality that film photography can offer, making it popular among commercial clients.

For a long time, I have been shooting commercially with a digital camera, but recently, more and more projects have been completed on film. For example, last winter, we collaborated with Blueprint on a special project for Adidas, photographing dancers from the House of Bonchinche vogue house. The main goal was to capture their movements and dance. It was an incredible experience, and I especially appreciate this shoot for its energy. Many projects have been realized on film, but in this case the choice was conscious - the client needed a characteristic film effect.

Before starting a collection with the Befree brand, you already had experience with it, right?

I collaborated with them for several years as a guest photographer. Later, Lima Lipa, with whom I worked on projects at Sobaka, became Befree's art director and is now responsible for collaborations. I remember sending her the Études collection, created in collaboration with Roy Ethridge, where the shirt featured images of landscapes, as detached as possible. I suggested: "I also have such photos, let's create something interesting."

Befree Launches Collaboration Project with contemporary artists and invited me to create a collection. A lengthy process began, which took about a year and included numerous meetings, selection of images, and design approval. I approached every aspect meticulously, but ultimately I was pleased with the result.

When I saw the pieces in person, they turned out to be much more appealing than I imagined.

Working in the fashion world as a photographer gave me unique experience that I was able to apply when I became a fashion designer. During the creation of the collection, I paid special attention to how the clothes would appear in the frame. I took into account the play of light, fabric textures, and silhouettes to achieve harmony between the design and photography. This allowed me to create not only stylish but also visually appealing pieces that look good on models and in photo shoots. My background in photography also gave me a better understanding of the importance of presentation of a collection, which helps draw attention to each design element.

I interacted primarily with one representative of the Befree team - Lima. I sent her the photos and we collaborated on a mood board that illustrated how the images could be used in clothing. This mood board was passed on to the designers for further work.

The team began creating the first concepts, but from Of the proposed options, I only liked the shirts. At that moment, we realized we needed to develop a collection that reflected my personality. It's quite paradoxical to create items I don't plan to wear myself, but they would feature my images. We decided that the collection should combine my style and ideas, so that each item would be meaningful and appealing to customers.

I prefer a basic style of clothing: long sleeves, jeans, T-shirts—everything as comfortable and practical as possible. So we decided to create an oversized hoodie and pantsuit. However, the image on the fabric shouldn't just be applied; it should become part of the clothing design concept. Patches and expressive stitches will add an element of slight casualness and uniqueness to each product.

I could easily evaluate ideas, saying: "this works," "this doesn't work," "this needs some work." As a result, it became clear that many of the initial ideas were ineffective. For example, one of the images lay incorrectly on the chest, and some stitches looked sloppy. This required making adjustments during the process.

The collection features many unique pieces that can become the basis of your wardrobe. For example, an elegant dress with a versatile cut is perfect for a variety of occasions, from work to evening outs. A classic shirt made of high-quality material is easily combined with jeans or skirts, creating a stylish and comfortable look.

Also worth paying attention to is the jackets, which add sophistication to any outfit. They can serve as an element of outerwear in cool weather or as a stylish accent in an office style.

These items are not only relevant but also easily incorporate into everyday looks, making them an excellent choice for creating a capsule wardrobe. Investing in these versatile pieces will keep you on trend and confident in any situation.

Some items, like my favorite cat t-shirt, were a spontaneous creation. When I received the next batch of clothes from the factory, I was thrilled to see such a cute kitten in a heart on the t-shirt. This decision was made by the designer, and, in my opinion, the result is an incredibly stylish and original T-shirt.

Everything in my wardrobe coordinates perfectly. They feature a minimalist style—sweaters, T-shirts, and hoodies—which allows for a wide variety of looks. The pantsuit remains on trend, complete with a hand-scanned patch. Its super-visual cut suits almost anyone, ensuring comfort and style.

Our hoodie patch features a petite girl who spent a long time searching for the perfect size S hoodie. She was so impressed with the quality and design that she bought one for herself, her sister, and even gave it to friends. She raves: "This is simply incredible; I never take it off." The hoodie is comfortable, made of high-quality material that doesn't cause discomfort. We pride ourselves on using only natural fabrics that provide freedom of movement and a pleasant wearing experience.

I left St. Petersburg, leaving behind part of my collection. They remain there, awaiting my return.

I was actively involved in every stage of the concept development for the collection shoot. My role was to create a visual image that would reflect the uniqueness and ideas of the collection. We discussed the style, color palette, and atmosphere we wanted to convey through the photographs. I collaborated with the team of stylists and photographers to ensure that every element of the shoot was consistent with the overall concept. It was also important to consider the target audience and fashion trends, which helped create attractive and memorable visual content to promote the collection.

I conducted the shoot myself. We considered inviting another photographer, but I am confident that I know better how to convey the concept. This understanding came to me while I was still working on the collection: the shoot should take place in natural locations, without the use of set design or decorations. The main focus is on people and nature, because the campaign is dedicated to how people harmoniously fit into the world around them.

By the time we began planning the shoot, our team was already scattered across the world. We began searching for a convenient location. Georgia was initially considered, but after Ulyana Dobrovskaya, the subject of the project, was confirmed, we decided to move the shoot to Armenia. I suggested Nastya Shevtsova, a former ballerina who now works as a DJ in Paris and does art direction, as an additional participant. Befree emphasized models who exude health and positivity, and we found a compromise that satisfied all parties.

Our project now features a new subject – a model from the agency. We decided to create commercial photographs for the catalog, focusing on clothing. At the same time, we plan to capture atmospheric shots with Nastya and Ulyana that reflect the mood of the collection.

The concept for the shoot evolved as we worked. Initially, we discussed one heroine, then two, and ultimately three. This created a certain ambiguity regarding the main idea of ​​the story. However, later I was able to clearly envision the plot. Inspiration came from Ingmar Bergman's film "Persona." When I saw the locations in Armenia, one of them reminded me of a scene—a house by a lake, where two women find themselves in a forced intimacy. This image became the basis for the further development of our story.

Ultimately, it was impossible to convey the story of the relationship between two supposedly unknown girls. There were time constraints and daylight hours, which quickly ran out. Filming in a house was impossible, creating additional difficulties. Therefore, the core idea remained the same—more abstract, dealing with humans in nature and human nature. We sought to explore the deepest aspects of human nature and its connection with the surrounding world.

In the context of your experience working with large companies and brands, which shoot seems the most impressive to you?

The shoot turned out to be really successful, but I didn’t have enough time to implement my creative ideas. The location was magnificent, and the models were inspiring, making me wish I could spend more time shooting. It's important to remember that commercial projects and fulfilling other people's tasks are different from the creative process and realizing your own ideas. It's important to clearly distinguish these aspects of your work.

All the commercial shoots I've done over the past few years have brought me joy. One of the highlights was a New Year's shoot inspired by Olivier salad. We chose creative coloring for six models, each representing an ingredient: sausage, cucumber, peas, and other elements. The shoot took place in a cozy apartment, where the women prepared Olivier salad, creating an atmosphere of fun and friendship. This experience was not only interesting but also an original way to convey the holiday spirit.

The project with Buro 24/7 for LG was a striking example of a creative approach to advertising. This campaign focused on ordinary people rather than models, which created a more natural and accessible atmosphere. The filming was done using a fisheye lens, which allowed the vacuum cleaner's rounded shape to be emphasized. The vacuum itself wasn't shown directly; viewers' attention was focused on the characters and the surreal set design, making the project unique and memorable. This approach helps to better convey the key characteristics of the product to the audience, creating an emotional connection through images and stories.

The issue of future collaborations is becoming increasingly relevant. Many artists and creative individuals are thinking about expanding their horizons and finding new partners for joint work. Collaborations can generate fresh ideas and allow you to reach a wider audience. It's important not just to think about such projects but also to actively seek out opportunities to collaborate with talented people who can complement and enrich your creative process. There are many avenues for joint projects, and each new collaborative experience can be a significant career step. I plan to move to Berlin for professional development. My work encompasses both commercial photography and my own personal practice, and I strive to find harmony between these areas. In the future, I want to focus on creating photo books, exhibition projects, and collaborating with various publications. I understand that this path will require considerable effort, as it involves not only photography but also active promotion of myself and my work. Berlin seems to me the ideal place to realize my creative ambitions and apply my skills.

When it comes to clothing brands, it is important to consider the variety of styles, quality of materials, and the individuality of each manufacturer. Many brands offer unique collections that reflect the latest fashion trends. The choice of clothing brand can depend on preferences in design, comfort, and price segment.

Modern brands are actively using sustainable materials and eco-friendly technologies, which is becoming an important aspect for environmentally conscious consumers. It's also worth noting that many companies strive for transparency in their production processes, which helps buyers make informed choices.

When choosing a clothing brand, it's important to consider not only its reputation but also its suitability for your personal preferences and style. Brands that emphasize quality and uniqueness often become favorites among customers.

The experience with Befree was an important step in my life, and I'm glad it happened. However, I still can't fully comprehend its significance, as I left and didn't have the opportunity to see my work in stores or the commercial with my name on the screen in the gallery.

I haven't fully processed what happened, and therefore I can't imagine what will happen next. I need to embrace this experience as part of myself and accept that it has become a part of my life.

We will consider collaborations with other brands, as I am particularly drawn to the use of my photographs in everyday life. This creates a sense of accessibility and intimacy, making art tangible and delightful. This approach not only enriches the viewer's experience but also opens up new horizons for co-creation. The opportunity to collaborate with other brands and integrate my work into their products allows us to create unique solutions that inspire and delight.

According to a court decision, Meta Platforms Inc. is banned in the Russian Federation due to extremist activity. This applies to the sale of its products, including the social networks Facebook and Instagram, in the country.

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