Tokyo Fashion Week: A First-Person Account

Contents:

• The most striking presentation
• The most interesting collections

The most striking presentation

My rating of the four best elements worth considering.

Pays de Fees, which translates as "Country Pays de Fees is a subculture brand closely associated with the Gothic Lolita aesthetic. This brand attracts attention with its unique interpretation of fashion, combining elements of romance and dark beauty. Pays de Fees offers collections that intertwine magic and mystery, making it popular among fans of alternative culture and gothic aesthetics. Japan boasts a diverse and unique subculture, which can be found in the iconic Harajuku district of Tokyo. This area has become a magnet for various youth movements, who have gathered there for decades. Harajuku is a symbol of creativity and self-expression, where everyone can showcase their individual style and outlook on life. Walking the streets of Harajuku, you'll encounter people in vibrant and extravagant outfits, making the area a true mecca for fashion and culture enthusiasts. The brand was founded by media artist Lim Asafuji in 2014 and has since become a household name in the fashion world. A recent fashion show was held in the historic wards of a former psychiatric hospital, adding a unique atmosphere to the event. The new collection is inspired by the manga of Junji Ito, one of Japan's most famous manga artists, highlighting the influence of Japanese culture on contemporary design. Lim Asafuji's creations attract attention with their original style and profound artistic concepts, making the brand a standout in contemporary art and fashion. The manga's protagonist, Tomie, is a femme fatale who evokes intense attraction in men. Each of them eventually becomes her killer, but Tomie always comes back to life. This unique combination of dark aesthetics and irresistible charm makes her an iconic character. In honor of this manga, the models showed the collection in identical wigs with long dark hair, which emphasizes the mystery and charm of Tomie.

Paratrait is a new brand founded in 2023 by designer Shunta Sakai, who previously worked for such famous fashion houses as Alexander McQueen and Burberry. The brand strives to bring fresh ideas and innovation to the world of fashion, combining high quality with unique design solutions. Paratrait aims to create stylish and modern clothing that reflects the latest trends and the individuality of its customers.

Cakai presented its collection, aiming to demonstrate how people can dress stylishly and comfortably in a parallel reality. The show featured a spectacular light show and original music created especially for the event. The collection includes elements that can be described as "trekking chic," with an emphasis on beautiful and technical coats, jackets, vests, and boots. These garments perfectly combine functionality and aesthetics, making them suitable for both active recreation and everyday wear.

MSML is a brand founded in 2017 as a collaboration between rock musicians. The new collection features stylish streetwear elements adorned with bold slogans such as "Live free or die" and "Music saved my life." The collection's presentation attracted attention not only for its unique outfits, which seamlessly blended with the classic rock-punk aesthetic with grunge accents, but also for the impressive show put on by the designers and models. This collection perfectly conveys the spirit of freedom and musical culture, making it appealing to true fans of rock style.

After the presentation, the curtain opened in the hangar where the show was held, revealing a rock band. For three minutes, the musicians performed an energetic rock set, filling the space with powerful music and creating an unforgettable atmosphere.

Fetico is a brand founded in 2020 that stands out for its feminine silhouettes and high-quality products. The company's core principles include close collaboration with regional textile producers and an ignorance of short-term fashion trends. Fetico strives to offer its customers unique and stylish pieces that emphasize individuality and elegance. Emi Funayama, the brand's founder, noted in an interview that her main goal is to create high-quality clothing that can eventually find its way into vintage stores. The new collection was shown in a vintage concert or theater hall, where models descended a majestic spiral staircase and moved across the stage along a carefully designed trajectory. The background music was specially written for this event, emphasizing the uniqueness of the show and creating an atmosphere corresponding to the concept of the collection.

The Most Interesting Collections

I present to you my list of the seven best options.

Chika Kisada is a brand founded in 2017 by the founder of the same name. It harmoniously combines punk and ballet aesthetics. A ballet dancer since childhood, Kisada naturally incorporates balletcore elements into her collections. The brand is distinguished by bold experiments with silhouettes, colors, and accessories, making it unique in the fashion world. Chika Kisada attracts the attention of those who appreciate originality and creativity in clothing.

Houga is Houga is a brand founded in 2019 by designer Moe Ishida, an art historian by training. His professional experience and deep understanding of art are reflected in every product element. Houga offers unique and stylish designs that attract attention and create an atmosphere of elegance. The brand actively develops its collections, combining traditional techniques with modern trends, making its products particularly appealing to connoisseurs of high-quality design.

The new collection clearly draws influence from Gothic aesthetics, as well as the style of European brands such as Simone Rocha and Vivienne Westwood. These elements create a unique combination, bringing both dark and romantic accents to the collection, highlighting the diversity of contemporary fashion trends.

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Semaglutide Chic: Its Impact on Bodies and Design in Contemporary Fashion

Semaglutide, a drug known for its weight loss effects, has had a significant impact on modern fashion trends. Changes in the figures of people using semaglutide lead to a new aesthetic, where the emphasis shifts to slimness and health. This, in turn, affects clothing design and the choice of models.

Modern designers are adapting their collections to reflect this new reality. Clothing is becoming more versatile and comfortable, reflecting the desire for an active and healthy lifestyle. Fabrics, lines, and shapes used in design emphasize harmony and balance, striving to create the perfect silhouette.

The effect of semaglutide also changes the perception of beauty. The image of a modern person in fashion is no longer limited by traditional standards. Individuality and self-confidence are increasingly valued every day, opening up new horizons for creativity in the fashion industry. Thus, semaglutide chic is becoming an important part of contemporary fashion discourse, reflecting changes in body image and lifestyle.

Non Tokyo is a brand founded in 2013 by designer Ayano Ichige. The creator's primary goal is for women to feel comfortable and relaxed when wearing Non Tokyo clothing. The brand offers stylish and comfortable outfits that allow free expression of individuality without sacrificing comfort. Non Tokyo clothing is ideal for everyday life, combining current trends with high-quality materials.

The collections feature many garments that can be worn both ways. The brand actively uses modern materials, including waterproof and water-repellent fabrics, which provide additional comfort and protection in various weather conditions.

The brand's clothing emphasizes durability, which is an important aspect of environmental responsibility. Ichige believes that creating high-quality and durable clothing helps reduce the negative impact on the environment. The new collection also reflects the influence of upcycling and resale aesthetics, emphasizing a commitment to sustainable fashion. Wearing things with history and reusing them is becoming part of a modern approach to style and ecology.

Pillings – Pillings is a brand founded by Ryota Murakami in 2014. In 2021, he won the Tokyo Fashion Award for his collection. Murakami creates clothing with a retro aesthetic, drawing inspiration from both the experiments of Rei Kawakubo and Junya Watanabe and traditional handicraft techniques such as hand knitting. Pillings stands out for its unique style and high-quality materials, making it a prominent player in the fashion scene. The bulk of the 2025 collection was developed in collaboration with Japanese knitters. This unique partnership allows for the creation of pieces that blend traditional techniques with contemporary fashion trends. Japanese craftswomen bring their unique aesthetics and craftsmanship to every detail of the collection, making each piece not only stylish but also high-quality.

Satoru Sasaki founded his brand in 2019 with the slogan "Clothes that make women admire men." The designer creates both menswear and womenswear, while his collections emphasize femininity and unisexuality. In 2024, Satoru Sasaki won the Tokyo Fashion Award, highlighting his contribution to contemporary fashion and recognition in the industry.

Sasaki boldly experiments with color, layering, and asymmetry. Unlike his fashion week colleagues, who focus on creating clothes for everyday wear, he incorporates avant-garde elements into his collections that are difficult to integrate into a regular wardrobe. This makes his work unique and memorable, emphasizing individuality and a creative approach to fashion.

Yoshiokubo is one of the famous brands of Tokyo Fashion Week, founded by designer Yoshio Kubo in 2004. The designer's goal in each collection is to explore unique patterns and details that have never been combined before. The brand is distinguished by bold solutions and an innovative approach to fashion, making it a prominent player in the Japanese and international fashion scene. Yoshiokubo continues to attract the attention of both fans and critics thanks to his ability to combine traditional elements with modern trends.

The collections feature strictly utilitarian streetwear and workwear, distinguished by unusual cuts and original designs.

Hatra is a brand founded by Keisuke Nagami in 2010. The designer's core idea is to create clothing that represents a "liminal" space between the human body and the surrounding reality. Each Hatra collection reflects a desire to connect the physical and metaphysical, creating unique images that emphasize individuality and self-expression. The brand draws attention to contemporary trends and topical issues related to fashion and identity, offering products that are not only beautiful but also functional. Hatra is more than just clothes; it is a concept that allows everyone to find their own unique interpretation of reality.

The designer actively uses digital technologies, including 3D fabric modeling, to create installations and contemporary art. In 2024, Hatra, in collaboration with ASICS, designed the uniform for the Japanese team at the Paris Olympics. The brand's new collection represents a unique experimental minimalism that combines style and functionality.

Tokyo Fashion Week, Unlike its New York and Paris counterparts, Tokyo Fashion stands out for the practicality of its collections. This event showcases not only current trends but also a focus on comfort and functionality. Japanese designers strive to create pieces that can easily be integrated into everyday life, making their collections particularly appealing to a wide audience. Tokyo fashion combines innovative ideas and practical applications, highlighting the region's unique style and cultural characteristics. Designers focus on creating vibrant shows, emphasizing not extravagance but a striking visual impact. Many pieces from the collections are ready-to-wear, allowing customers to easily purchase them on the brands' official websites and immediately integrate them into their wardrobes. This makes fashion more accessible and convenient for a wider audience, providing a stylish and relevant image.