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Who Wears Prada: The Fashion House's History and Development / ITech content

Who Wears Prada: The Fashion House's History and Development / ITech content

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Prada is the undisputed leader in the fashion world. This brand is known even to those not interested in fashion shows and clothing production, thanks to its appearances in famous films, contemporary art, and impressive architectural projects. Prada resonates from the Texas desert to outer space, capturing the attention of intellectuals and housewives alike.

In this article, we will discuss how creative talent, a passion for social causes, and marketing intuition became the foundation for the creation of the luxury fashion house Prada. We will also examine how the brand's influence has spread across visual culture worldwide. Prada not only sets trends in fashion, but also creates new standards for the perception of art and style, combining high fashion with current social issues.

Mario Prada

In 1913, in Milan, in a prestigious shopping gallery next to the city's main cathedral, brothers Mario and Martino Prada opened their store. Fratelli Prada specialized in the sale of bags and suitcases for travel, including English trunks made of precious wood with metal rivets. Some of the products were manufactured in Milan, while others were imported from Great Britain. The opening of this store marked the beginning of the successful path of the Prada brand, which subsequently became a symbol of luxury and high quality.

Prada initially offered expensive goods aimed at wealthy clients. Over time, the brand's travel accessories became popular among the Milanese bourgeoisie and aristocracy. The business's respectability was officially confirmed in 1919, when the Italian House of Savoy issued a certificate recognizing Prada as the official supplier to the royal court. This event led to the addition of heraldic elements to the Prada logo, including a coat of arms, ribbons, and a rope, emphasizing the brand's status and prestige.

The graphic elements used in Prada's designs have remained relevant and continue to influence the brand's contemporary style. These elements remain unchanged over time and emphasize the uniqueness and identity of Prada in the fashion world.

A rare English travel trunk from the 1910s and a classic Prada Cahier (French for "notebook") bag from the 2024 assortment. Image: 1stDibs / Prada
At the bottom of the coat of arms of the House of Savoy, which ruled Italy until 1946, are figure-eight knots. They are called Savoy knots or love knots: they bind firmly, but do not squeeze. On the right is a Prada wool and cashmere sweater with a pattern of ropes and Savoy knots. Image: Wikimedia Commons / Farfetch

Mario Prada ran his business until his death in 1958. He held traditional views on gender roles and initially intended to leave the business to his son. However, his son showed no interest in the family business and eventually handed over control of the company to his sisters, Nanda and Luisa. This step became a significant turning point in the history of the brand, which subsequently became known on the international arena as a symbol of style and quality.

The Vittorio Emanuele Gallery in 1919 and in August 1943. The war's damage to the business was not only physical: wealthy Prada customers were left broke, emigrated, or fought in the Italian army. Image: Fortunapost / Public Domain

His granddaughter

Luisa Bianchi, née Prada, demonstrated her managerial talents, striving to adapt the family brand's products to a dynamically changing market. With the increasing mobility of customers, traditional heavy suitcases lost their relevance. Despite her efforts, breakthrough development was not achieved, which highlights the difficulties of adapting classic brands to modern consumer demands.

In 1970, the founder's daughter, Maria Bianchi, later known as Miuccia Prada, joined the Prada family business. In 1973, she completed her studies at the University of Milan, receiving a degree in political science. Maria is actively involved in the feminist movement and is a member of the Italian Communist Party, and also works as a mime at the Milan Teatro Piccolo. While mastering the production of fashion accessories and clothing, as well as managing the company, she demonstrates outstanding managerial skills. In 1978, her mother handed over the management of the company to her, which became an important stage in the history of the Prada brand.

In 2018, Cate Blanchett interviewed Miuccia Prada for W Magazine, in which the designer shared her thoughts on the time spent in political activism and protests. She noted: “During that period, I was completely immersed in politics and activism. I didn’t go to university, except for exams. I was actively involved in the Women’s Union, but I didn’t like public speaking and gradually began working in the family business. For a feminist in the 1960s and 1970s, working in the fashion industry was considered an extremely negative choice. I was uncomfortable, but at the same time, I enjoyed it. At that time, fashion was perceived as something disrespectful."

In 1979, the Prada brand, headed by Signorina Bianchi, introduced its first line of nylon backpacks and totes. This material, which had been used for military purposes since the 1940s, became the basis for the creation of innovative accessories. Mario Prada had previously used rayon to make covers for his expensive suitcases. However, Prada backpacks did not immediately gain popularity: the high price, unconventional appearance, and limited advertising did not contribute to their immediate success. Nevertheless, over time, they became a symbol of a new fashion trend - "ugly chic", which Prada would continue to develop. These accessories did not conform to traditional notions of femininity and glamour, offering complex concepts and original ideas. Prada backpacks became an important milestone in the world of fashion, demonstrating how innovation can change the perception of stylish things.

Prada suitcases and bags on display in 1980. The fresco depicts a transatlantic liner from the early 20th century. Photo: Fairchild Archive / WWD / Penske Media / Getty Images
A Prada backpack at a factory in Slovenia. In 2019, the brand launched the Re-Nylon line - a revival of famous design samples Photo: Prada
Creative designer of the house of Prada in 2017. She became Miuccia Prada through a clever move: to formally inherit the name of her grandfather, the brand's founder, she asked her childless aunt, Nanda Prada, to adopt her. Photo: Andrea Raffin / Shutterstock

Her husband

In 1977, Maria Miuccia met Patrizio Bertelli, who soon became her business partner. In 1979, they jointly launched a line of luxury women's shoes, which became an important milestone in their careers and in the fashion world. In 1983, they opened a second store in Milan, and in 1986, they expanded their network, opening new stores in New York and Madrid. In 1987, their professional collaboration grew into a personal relationship, and they married. This couple was able to create a successful business that continues to influence the fashion industry.

Bertelli's business genius was the perfect complement to Miuccia's creative talent and boldness, forming a unique pairing that laid the foundations for a new business model in the luxury industry. Prada's key feature is its direct control over all stages of production and the high quality of its products. Unlike many luxury and premium brands, which outsource production processes to contractors and subcontractors, relying on strict instructions and losing control over quality, Prada adheres to the principle of complete control. This allows the brand to maintain its uniqueness and high standards, making it one of the leaders in the luxury market.

Prada Group products are manufactured in 18 of its own factories, and stores are managed directly, without the involvement of intermediaries. Patrizio Bertelli, the company's CEO, announced in 2021 plans to hand over management of the business to his son Lorenzo within the next three years, along with Miuccia. This step underscores the company's strategic approach to continuity and further development of the brand.

The interior of Prada stores is distinguished by a special shade of green. It first appeared in the design of the boutique on Via della Spiga in Milan in 1983. Pictured: Prada in a shopping mall in Singapore. Photo: Sorbis / Shutterstock
The exterior of the "historic" Prada boutique in Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II in Milan. This shopping arcade is the oldest in the world. Photo: Daniele Aloisi / Shutterstock
Prada accessories advertising campaign of 1987: juxtaposition of feminine image and agender, utilitarian, intellectual design. Photo: Albert Watson / Prada

In In 1988, the family-owned Prada transformed into a fashion house, presenting its first womenswear collection at a show in Milan. This event marked a significant milestone in the brand's history and had a significant impact on the fashion world, cementing Prada's status as a leading designer.

In the early 1990s, the company's management decided to focus on the US and Asian markets, shifting its strategy from an emphasis on Italian identity and European locations. This decision allowed the company to adapt to global trends and expand its international presence. By focusing on dynamic markets, the company was able to attract new customers and increase its competitiveness.

1998 advertising campaign Photo: Glen Luchford / Prada

Her fashion

Miuccia Prada's first collection featured dark colors and uniforms motifs, which contrasted sharply with the trends of the late 1980s, characterized by bright colors, glamour and an emphasis on sexuality. This design approach became iconic, emphasizing minimalism and intelligent style, which captured the attention of the fashion industry and changed the perception of womenswear.

The first show in 1988 featured crisp jackets with clean lines and white turn-down collars—a design that has been repeated many times since. Models with references to uniforms and workwear have generally become Prada's signature. Photo: Saks Fifth Avenue / Prada
Another significant component of Prada's "ugly chic" is "non-vintage vintage." Collections often feature looks that seem to be based on things from grandparents—wool socks and knitted vests, thick shirts with floral and checkered patterns, and cockerel hats. However, thanks to technological development and daring styling, all these items look modern. Photo: Prada / 1stDibs

In the early 1990s, Prada strengthened its position as a luxury fashion house, offering intellectual and sometimes ironically primitive conceptual design. The brand is famous for the high quality of its products and an emphasis on original, sometimes extravagant ideas. Prada does not strive to rework classic designs, but prefers to create unique and bold solutions, which makes it one of the leaders in the fashion world.

On the left is a formal jacket and a transparent skirt, from the 1995 show. Transparent skirts will become one of the main fashion trends in 2024. On the right is an alpaca wool cocktail dress, 2017. Photo: Davide Maestri / WWD / Penske Media / Getty Images / 1stDibs
Prada places great emphasis on technological experimentation and development. This 2007 campaign showcases a complex blend of fabric textures, intricate knitting, and delicate leather trim. Photo: Steven Meisel / Prada

Prada's first menswear runway show took place in 1998, but Prada Man advertising campaigns began appearing in glossy magazines as early as 1995. These campaigns became iconic for the fashion industry and the brand itself thanks to their minimalist style and emphasis on a strong personality. Instead of traditional models, the photographs featured famous intellectual actors such as John Malkovich, Tim Roth, William Dafoe, Joaquin Phoenix, and Norman Reedus. These images emphasized uniqueness and individuality, which made Prada a significant player in the men's fashion market.

Prada's 1996 campaign with Tim Roth Photo: David Sims / Prada
Inviting famous actors of undeniable great talent for advertising has become the standard for the brand. Fall-Winter 2013 campaign with Christoph Waltz Photo: David Sims / Prada

At the beginning of the 21st century, the concept of It Bags emerged — "luxury bags that should be in every fashionista's wardrobe." In this context, the House of Prada played a significant role, presenting the Bowler Bag in the spring 2000 collection. This model quickly gained popularity and sold out in a matter of days, causing queues of people wanting it. The Bowler Bag design has inspired numerous brands to create their own versions, cementing the bag's status as a fashion must-have.

Prada classics in the 2020 advertising campaign: a nylon backpack and a "bowling bag" Photo: Drew Vickers / Prada

In most fashion houses, Founded in the early 20th century, Prada's designs are based on unique "codes"—elements and details associated with the house's founder and legendary. For example, at the House of Dior, one such code is the "five-pointed star." Legend has it that Christian Dior, walking down the street and doubting his future as a fashion designer, noticed a star on the sidewalk and took it as a sign of his inevitable success. These codes not only reflect the brand's history but also help create its unique style, which continues to inspire designers and fashionistas around the world. Prada uses unique codes based not on legends, but on real graphic elements, which ensure design consistency over the decades. The brand's different products are visually unified through the use of leather textures and the distinctive triangle shape, which is part of the logo. These elements create a harmonious perception of the collections and emphasize the individuality of the brand, which makes Prada recognizable and desirable among fashion connoisseurs.

Bag made of saffiano texture leather, lipstick with a triangular cut and saffiano texture, saffiano stripe on a bottle of Prada Candy perfume Photo: Prada
Bold and ironic patterns are another important attribute of Prada design. Photo: Prada photo-lime / Shutterstock / Cavallienastri

Miuccia Prada's design talent has had a significant influence on both the world of high fashion and popular culture. She distinguished herself as a fashion designer in Baz Luhrmann's iconic films, such as Romeo + Juliet and The Great Gatsby. Her Juliet dress with wings and beaded details, inspired by 1920s fashion, became popular looks, especially for Halloween. Prada's influence on contemporary fashion and cinema continues to generate interest, highlighting its unique style and creative approach.

Still: film "Romeo + Juliet" / 20th Century Fox
Still: The Great Gatsby / Warner Bros.

In 2020, Belgian designer Raf Simons joined Miuccia Prada as the brand's second creative director. He is known for his unconventional approach to fashion and commitment to precision in design. The collaboration between Simons and Prada marked an important stage in the brand's development, as they both share a passion for innovation and experimentation in the fashion industry. This union of talents brought fresh ideas and a new vision to Prada's collections, strengthening its position in the global fashion market.

By 2024, Prada's designs have clearly embraced gender aversion and liberation from traditional constraints related to the body and clothing. Formal dresses are crafted from the lightest fabrics, presenting a significant design challenge. This approach reflects new trends in fashion that emphasize individuality and comfort, as well as the desire for diversity in styles and shapes.

Men's and women's clothing collection, spring-summer 2024. Creative directors Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons Photo: Prada Group press service

Their Influence

The Prada-Bertelli family is active not only in the design of clothing, footwear, and accessories, but also in supporting art and architecture. The House of Prada initiates collaborative projects with talented artists and progressive architects, and organizes unique creative events. This influence extends to visual, material, and intangible culture around the world, emphasizing the importance of the interaction between fashion and art.

In 1995, Patrizio and Miuccia founded Fondazione Prada, an institution that has become a center for organizing art exhibitions and developing conceptual architectural objects. Fondazione Prada actively promotes the development of contemporary art and architecture, offering a platform for exhibitions and cultural events that attract both local and international audiences.

The Prada Foundation occupies the site of a former distillery in the south of Milan. From 2008 to 2018, the OMA studio worked on the complex. Photo: Prada / Oma
Art at Fondazione Prada, 2022. Photo: Todamo / Shutterstock

In the early 2000s, Prada collaborated with the renowned architectural firm Herzog & de Meuron and architect Rem Koolhaas collaborated to create the unique design of their boutiques in New York, Los Angeles, and Tokyo. These stores, known as Epicenters, have become more than just retail spaces; they are hubs of technology and contemporary architecture. They host exhibitions, lectures, debates, and special film screenings, engaging visitors and creating a unique brand experience. Epicenter has become a symbol of Prada's innovative approach to retail and architecture, bringing together fashion, art, and culture in one space.

Epicenter Tokyo store Photo: Herzog & de Meuron
An architectural object, the rotating Prada Transformer by Rem Koolhaas, was opened in Seoul in 2009. He worked for six months. Photo: Prada / OMA
Sovrisk by the road in Texas is a fake Prada boutique. It was erected by an art group in 2005, and the object was supposed to naturally disintegrate over time and disappear without a trace. However, after the robbery, the building was restored so that the installation would become permanent. Photo: Jo Hunter / Shutterstock

Since 2018, Prada has hosted events called Prada Mode. The first took place in Miami as part of the Art Basel fair, and the sixth took place in Moscow in December 2021. These events combined elements of local architecture and global contemporary art, creating a unique visual atmosphere. The venue operated for several days, offering guests a bar with music and dancing, lectures, and the opportunity to immerse themselves in the world of fashion and unique experiences.

Prada Mode Moscow, December 3–4, 2021. Artist Damien Hirst worked on the project: he decorated the facade of the old building with multi-colored neon and created installations on the theme of a pharmacy inside. Photo: Prada Group press service.

Prada is actively collaborating beyond fashion. In 2007, the brand introduced the LG KE850 Prada touchscreen smartphone, which hit the market just six months before the first iPhone, becoming a landmark in technology. In 2023, the private space company Axiom Space announced a partnership with Prada to develop spacesuits for the Artemis III lunar mission. Thus, Prada continues to expand its horizons, combining fashion and innovation in various fields.

The first and third versions of the Prada Phone Image: Prada Group / LG
Prada and Adidas collaboration 2019. This fashion house was the first to present a joint project with a mass-market brand, followed by Gucci and Balenciaga. The advertising image emphasizes the theme of technology, high quality and professionalism. Photo: Prada

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